What to see in Todi in one day? Well maybe one day is not enough but if you are passing through this beautiful city pearl Dell Umbria I will give you some tips on the most important monuments to see in Todi
Todi preserves numerousartistic and monumental testimonies of different historical periods: from the Etruscan age to modern times. Following a logical itinerary or if we want to road ,I will describe in brief what are the main monuments that tourists encounter on their way during a visit to Todi..
Roman Gate
is the main entrance to the city: it was built at the time of Gregory XIII(1572-85) who stamped his name at the top of the arch. The surrounding area still retains the dialect term of “foriporta “which is often used by the people of Todi(for those who still do not know , tuderti are the citizens of Todi :the term comes from the Latin word “Tuder”)to refer to this place.(Photo of Porta Romana -before restoration).
Turning to the left of the gate one follows externally the third circle of walls erected in the medieval period during the maximum expansion of the city: the other two circles built to defend Todi, are from the Etruscan period in the highest part of the hill and from the Roman period located lower down. Porta Nuova and Amerina are the next gates that meet following the road leading to the centrocitta’ .
Porta Fratta
Porta Amerina better known as porta fratta, meaning divided, ruined(in ancient times it was also called “scarcata”). In front of porta fratta there is the descent of the piagge , a little further on, to the left,at the height of the second tower you reach by a downhill street the building that constituted the monastery of S.Arcangelo, called “delle fontanelle” from the nearby fountain. There is no more trace of the monastery while the small fountains consisting of two round stone arches remain well preserved. Continuing our route toward the square of Todi, we come to a vast square where the temple of St. Mary of Consolation stands.
The Consolation
The Temple of Consolation(1508-1607) was erected in the place where there was already a wayside shrine on which was painted the image of the Virgin and Child with St. Catherine of Alexandria to whom were attributed numerous miracles.Legend has it that a mason named Iole di Cecco,blind in one eye,miraculously regained his sight after wiping his eye with the handkerchief with which he had removed the dust from the sacred image. Uncertain is the attribution of the original project to Donato Bramante, more likely a free interpretation by executors who were pupils of Bramante himself.The direction of the work was entrusted to prominent architects of the period,first and foremost Antonio da Sangallo the younger. The Greek-cross temple , unfolds on four large pillars corresponding to the corners of a square on the sides of which the apses rest. Above this square building extends a terrace,above it rises the drum and dome that closes at the top with a small lantern. The interior is richly decorated and features capitals , rosettes and spandrels in which the four evangelists with their symbols are depicted surrounded by festoons of flowers and fruit. In the north apse is the high altar inside which is the image of the Virgin and Child. Continuing our virtual tour toward the center and passing through the street that the Todini in dialect call “cerquette” we soon arrive at the small public gardens from which one can enjoy an excellent view of the middle valley of the Tiber and the area of the city called the “lower valley”: a little further along Via Ciuffelli we come to the sight of the Tempiodel di San Fortunato.
Temple of St. Fortunatus
The temple of St. Fortunatus bishop and patron of Todi , was built on the site of the ancient church where the saint’s remains were preserved. Work began in the mid-1200s and was completed in 1465 although the facade as can be clearly seen remained unfinished.Legend has it that it was the work of the Orvietani who, for fear that the facade of the temple of St. Fortunato would surpass that of Orvieto Cathedral in beauty, blinded the architect Giovanni di Santuccio.The far more prosaic reality tells us that they had probably run out of money. The crypt now houses the remains of the blessed Jacopone da Todi ,friar and illustrious poet ,known for his lauds. There are valuable frescoes in the cathedral: to be admired “Madonna Enthroned with Child “by Masolino da Panicale. For a more comprehensive description of the temple I refer you to my article devoted to the Church of St. Fortunatus
People’s Square
hub of Tuderte life. The square is enclosed between three palaces: in that of the Priors facing the cathedral(1330-1337,characterized by an irregular trapezoidal tower with Guelph battlements on the roof , Todi was also the site of bitter clashes between Guelphs and Ghibellines)you can admire the bronze Tuderte eagle by Giovanni di Gigliaccio. The People’s Palace and the Captain’s Palace are on the eastern side of the square .
The Dome
The Dome dedicated to the Santissima Annunziata dates from the 11th cent.A wide staircase from the 1700s precedes the present facade, which is decorated with three sumptuous rose windows. The interior has a Latin cross plan with three naves separated by pillars and columns.Admire the wooden choir by Antonio Bencivenni ,The Last Judgment by Ferrrau’ da Faenza and the large crucifix of the Umbrian school.
Municipal Buildings
The Palazzo del Popolo and the Palazzo del Capitano are the municipal buildings that overlook Todi’s Piazza del Popolo. On the left for those looking frontally we find the Captain’s Palace on the right the People’s Palace.
The People’s Palace is the oldest ,its existence is already witnessed in 1213 . The style is Lombard Gothic with two orders of windows. The Palazzo del Popolo , was intended for the seat of the Podestà, a foreign magistrate with a six-month appointment present in Todi since 1201. The People’s Palace is, among the oldest public buildings in Italy.
The Palace of the Captain also known as the new one was built in 1293.
On the ground floor are two large round arches leading to the so-called voltoni, a porticoed environment originally home to the crossbowmen guarding the palaces and the square , now often is the site of food and wine markets or more simply used by Todians for shelter in rainy weather. Of note are the three Gothic windows on the second floor, formed by polylobate triple lancet windows surmounted by tympanum motifs that give light to the large hall, with remains of 14th-century frescoes, originally used as the Captain’s courtroom and now used as the City Council chamber.
Inside the Palazzo del Capitano and Palazzo del Popolo are the headquarters of the town hall and the Todi civic museum including the lapidary museum in which there are numerous finds from town excavations.
The Art Gallery Museum includes various sections devoted to the origins and history of the city. Of particular note is the altarpiece Coronation of Mary,by Spagna (1507-1511) one of Perugino’s most important disciples.
Continuing along the street behind the cathedral , via del Seminario we come to a small anonymous square overrun with cars , on the right side there is an anonymous facade but inside is a real treasure trove of art , it is the
Church of the Nunziatina also known as the little sistine chapel of Todi.
The church is now open to the public every day upon payment of a two-euro ticket. The Nunziatina church was the seat of the Confraternity of the Holy Annunciation.
Returning toward the square and turning left, one goes into the Borgo district on Santa Prassede Street. After a hundred meters or so, following the signs, you arrive at 25 Via delle mura Antiche where you find the painted house.
The Painted House
is an ordinary house in the historic center of Todi but internally all frescoed, with references to the Celtic world ,by its owner the internationally renowned Irish artist Brian O’Doherty (also known as Patrick Ireland) and his wife Barbara Novak.
Initially it was their vacation home in Italy, but from 1977 the artist began to paint it. So much so that it has become an authentic work of art appreciated worldwide especially by those who love contemporary art.
Entering the large kitchen and then going upstairs to the bedroom is a unique and totally immersive journey through colors and shapes.
To end this day tour of Todi , we return to the Piazza and dive underground to admire one of the most impressive architectural works built by the Romans:
The Roman Cisterns.
are the impressive hydraulic construction work carried out by the Romans to meet the city’s need for water. To visit a part of these cisterns one must access them from a gateway located on Via del Monte on the east side of the square …
.The cisterns under the east side, which cannot be visited, are divided into 12 rooms and were discovered in 1262 during the repaving of the square, as recorded in a local chronicle .
Returning to the sunlight in the square we can now go down to the main street Via Cavour not without first admiring the statue of Garibaldi standing in the square of the same name .
Garibaldi Square
was originally named St. John’s because of the presence of a church dedicated to Sts. John and Paul, demolished in the late 13th at the behest of Pope Boniface VIII.
From Piazza del Popolo we take Corso Cavour. After a few dozen meters downhill we turn left onto Old Market Street.
In Old Market Square known to Todians as Mercataccio (it was the site of the weekly market since 1819) stand the Roman Nicchioni.
The Roman Nicchioni
are very large structures dating from the mid-1st century. Ac and built by the Romans probably as retaining walls. Originally the front part was covered with mosaics.
Descending the valley we come to the Scannabecco Spring dating back to the 13th century . The fountain consists of four basins surmounted by a portico with seven columns decorated with capitals.
There is much more to visit in Todi , churches monuments and historic buildings but those who are passing through for a day or just a few hours cannot help but visit the monuments we have summarily described.
There is much more to visit in Todi , churches monuments and historic buildings but those who are passing through for a day or just a few hours cannot help but visit the monuments we have summarily described.
