Todi is the pearl of Umbria :a wonderful city with medieval charm situated on a hill about 460 mt high in the middle Tiber valley halfway between Perugia Terni. In 1990 it had an international resonance thanks to the research of a U.S. university professor ( Richard Levine )who awarded it the title of the most livable city in the world based on certain parameters such as its well-proportioned size, good temperature, ideal hillside climate, low humidity, adequate rainfall and excellent relationship with the surrounding agricultural environment.
In this guide I will take you on a discovery of the beauties of Todi
The legend of the birth of Todi
The legend of Todi’s birth is rooted in myth . The story goes that a group of men headed by their leader Tudero had decided to build their dwellings along the left bank of the Tiber, but while they were intent on eating roasted meats on top of a crude cloth , a lightning eagle swooped down to seize the tablecloth with its talons and then swooped upward to rest on the top of the hill. After a moment of dismay, the men understood that the gods had determined that the city should be built on top of the hill where the eagle had laid the tablecloth. And precisely on the spot where today is the rione nidola .That is why the coat of arms of Todi is an eagle holding a cloth with its talons.
The History of Todi
Its origins date as far back as between the 8th and 7th centuries. B.C. Its strategic location dominating the middle Tiber River valley made it a rich and culturally active urban center even during the medieval period. Todi in fact was born long before the Roman Empire , and was a passage and border area between the Umbrian and Etruscan peoples : the word Todi seems to derive in fact from the Latin “tutere” meaning border. The most important evidence of the presence of the Etruscans in Todi comes from the first circle of walls (vi-v century B.C.) , the discovery of the famous statue of Mars: an Etruscan statue, dating from the V-IVcentury BC, representing the god of war. Mars, practicing a ritual before battle. And also characteristic is a dolphin carved in stone visible in the dolphin alley.
Entry into the political orbit of Rome occurred after 89 B.C. when it was declared a Roman civitatus. Immediately after the victory of Philippi (42 B.C.) Todi became Colonia Iulia Fida Tuder . From the Augustan age it received a vigorous building impulse with the construction of an amphitheater, civic buildings and villas. During Christianity Todi turns out to be among the oldest and largest dioceses in Italy due to its proximity to Rome and the presence of two roads-the Flaminia and the Amerina-which not only facilitated the passage of goods but also conveyed the spread of the faith.
But it is in the medieval period from 1200 that Todi had its greatest territorial expansion ( arrived ‘to subjugate the cities of Amelia and Terni) and the time when the city ,thanks to illustrious families such as Arnolfi , Montemarte and Atti, saw the construction of the most important buildings and monuments in the historic center .The square of Todi ( one of the most beautiful in Italy ) to all intents and purposes is considered a perfect example of medieval architecture: here The Palazzo dei Priori expression of Temporal power is contrasted, being located on the other side of the square ,to the Duomo , expression of spiritual power.
And in 1230 its most distinguished citizen was born in Todi: Jacopone of Todi: Medieval poet( famous is the poem “Lament of Our Lady”) as well as deep religious spirit of the time , beatified only after his death because he was at odds with Pope Boniface VIII whose bitter enemy he was , which cost him a very harsh imprisonment for many years in the subterranean prison of the convent of San Fortunato in Todi.
In the modern age Todi participated enthusiastically in Napoleonic proposals for renewal and unwillingly returned under the authority of the Papal States.
He participated,also, in the events of the Risorgimento and was very supportive of Garibaldi in the retreat of 1849, so much so that on the occasion of his passage through the town of Jacopone a cypress tree was planted in his honor that can still be seen today in the square dedicated to him.
During contemporary history Todi followed the fortunes of other small Umbrian towns and saw many of its citizens immolate themselves for their country during the two world wars. In the postwar period it was able to recover with the goodwill of its inhabitants and to move from a predominantly agricultural economy to one based on the tertiary sector,crafts and small industry;although tourism is still one of the most significant items .
How to get to Todi and where to park
Todi is situated in a happy position , in the center of Umbria and therefore not far from the major centers of interest in the region such as Perugia from which is half an hour drive , Terni ( 25 min by car) , Assisi ( about 40 min ) and Orvieto ( 30 min by car). Further away are Gubbio , Spoleto and Norcia .
To get to Todi by car, follow the A1 and exit at Orte for those coming from the south , while exiting at Valdichiana for those traveling on the highway from the north and in both cases then take the E/45 to the Todi San Damiano junction .
Those who come to Todi by car especially on weekends will probably find access to the historic center blocked . For this reason , unless you have reservation in some hotel in the historic center , you need to park your car in the large parking lot at Porta Orvietana and then take the inclined elevator that will take you in a jiffy to less than 200 meters from the square , also enjoying a magnificent view from above.
What to see in Todi : the monuments
Todi like many other towns in Umbria is rich in history and culture . Its origins date back to the 8th-7th centuries B.C. and it was a border area between the Etruscan people and the ethnic groups of the Umbrians. In fact, the word Todi seems to derive from the Latin “tutere” meaning boundary. It is possible to see evidence of the passage of the Etruscans in the picture gallery of the town museum and in the lapidary museum located in the eagle’s nest ( the place where legend has it that a tablecloth was left by an eagle to indicate the exact place to build the town). The eagle with a cloth in its talons is the coat of arms of the city of Todi. In this video made with my drone I show you the main monuments that you can admire during a short visit to Todi.
To start your visit to Todi in one day, I recommend that you park your car in the free parking lot behind the Temple of Consolation and then take the free shuttle that takes you to Oberdan Gardens . From here can begin your visit to Todi .
The Temple of Consolation
It is The business card that greets all tourists when they come to visit Todi . It is an elegant 16th-century temple of great significance both for the affection that the people of Todi have for this church: in fact, on September 8 each year the birth of the Virgin Mary is commemorated with liturgical celebrations , a market, raffles and the highly anticipated nightly fireworks display; secondly, one is confronted by to one of the most beautiful 16th-century sacred buildings in Italy.
The church which for its elegance and architectural harmony has been attributed to Donato Bramante (although there is no signature in the historical archives attesting to his authorship) was begun in 1508 and finished in 1607 . The Temple of Consolation is a Greek-cross church of Renaissance style in whose construction the most distinguished Renaissance architects such as Cola di Metteuccio da Caprarola, Ambrogio da Milano, and Antonio da Sangallo participated. Inside the structure the space is large and harmonious thanks in part to the light coming from the fifty-six windows and the proportion of the 70-meter-high dome.
To the left of the main door is the statue of Pope Martin I born probably in Pian di san Martino di Todi . In the twelve niches are housed the plaster statues of the twelve apostles copies of the lost bronze statues .The main altar in Baroque forms was made by Angelo Pieri in 1612 ; the image of the Madonna is older and is linked to the legend of the foundation . According to tradition it was painted by a Benedictine monk Giovanni Ranuccio da Todi .The fresco in fact comes from an older church that stood on this site and was the object of special devotion by pilgrims. This devotion grew as a result of a miracle that allegedly benefited a mason who was blind in one eye and who, by dusting the fresco, regained his sight. Following the miracle work would begin on the construction of the present temple . And finally, a curiosity. In a shrine inside the temple of the Consolation can be seen nothing less than the rib of a dragon.
Legend has it that the inhabitants of Todi in the Middle Ages defeated a winged monster In the treacherous gorges of the forello with the intercession of the Virgin and brought this artifact(“longhezza di palmi sette et oz sette”) as a sign of gratitude.The winged monster was nothing but the figurative symbol of the continuous struggle between good and evil.
After your visit to the Temple of Consolation, you can take the free shuttle that stops at the Oberdan Gardens, a natural terrace with a wonderful view of the middle Tiber Valley in the direction of Perugia seen in the distance. And from here continue on foot to enjoy the tour of the historic center of Todi . The Church of St. Fortunato is within walking distance and a stop and visit is mandatory.
The Church of San Fortunato
The Temple , a rare Gothic three-aisle hall example that takes its inspiration from the German Gothic style called “Hallenkirke” preserves inside in the fourth chapel on the right a sublime fresco by Masolino di Panicale “Madonna and Child” in 1342. The church of St. Fortunato had ups and downs and fortunes . It was begun in the late 1100s and completed in the first half of the 400s although half of the facade remained unfinished . Legend has it that it was the fault of the Orvietani who, envious and fearful that the facade would become more beautiful than that of Orvieto Cathedral , blinded the architect in charge of building it . The far more prosaic reality reveals that that The Façade was not finished due to lack of necessary funds. The bas-reliefs beside the portal depict biblical scenes and animals and plants that have religious values and metaphors. Inside , in the crypt rest the remains of Jacopone da Todi along with those of the city’s patron saints ( San Fortunato ,San Cassiano,San Callisto ,Santa Degna and Romana).I also recommend a visit to the bell tower from where you can admire a magnificent panorama from above over the city and its surroundings.
After visiting the church if you want to enjoy some relaxation and have a quick picnic you can go on and climb to the top of the hill where you will find the Rocca Park ,a green area much loved by Todians on fine spring and summer days . The Fortress Park for several years has been renamed Beverly Pepper Park because some works of the famous American artist, who also stayed and worked in Todi, are installed there.
After a stop and a short snack you can continue your visit,: the good living room of the city awaits you :
The Square
The square in Todi is one of the most beautiful squares in Italy, both for its considerable size and for its typically medieval and well-preserved layout in all its characteristic elements. Indeed the medieval square in the classical scheme contemplates the civil monument set against the religious building. And Todi’s square perfectly reflects this duality : with the imposing cathedral, the Duomo, facing the Palazzo dei Priori the seat of the city’s authorities and government in the medieval period . On the right side of the square, however, you may notice when you enter People’s Square , the People’s Palace and the Captain’s Palace.
The Dome
The cathedral named after Maria Santissima Annunziata stands on the ruins of a pagan temple and and was built between the 12th AND 14th SEC. It has a beautiful 13th-century façade with an admirable rose window, while the three-aisled interior features a beautifully crafted wooden choir in the apse.The Romanesque style of the church is also evident in the trussed ceilings, and the mighty round arches of the aisles. The three naves are divided with columns decorated with Corinthian capitals.Admire the large fresco above the main door , the Last Judgment 1596 , by Ferrau da Faenza and a noteworthy wooden crucifix of the Umbrian school . Along the corridor flanking the left side of the cathedral and accessible from the steps leading up to the crypt is a display of sacred art and the Cathedral Treasury.
The people’s palace
The People’s Palace erected in the Romanesque style beginning in 1213 was intended to be both an official seat for the town’s Podestà and a large hall for meetings of the people’s representatives .
The Palace of the Captain
The Captain’s Palace decorated in the Gothic style as evidenced by the elegant three-mullioned windows on the facade was erected in 1293 and was the seat of the court and judicial offices .On the ground floor there are two large round arches leading to the so-called voltons, a porticoed environment originally home to the crossbowmen guarding the buildings and the square , now often the site of food and wine markets or more simply used by Todians for shelter in rainy weather.
The Palazzo dei Priori
The Palazzo dei Priori faces the cathedral(1330-1337),and is characterized by an irregular trapezoidal tower with Guelph battlements on the roof , Todi has also been the site of bitter clashes between Guelphs and Ghibellines).On the exterior facade you can ‘admire the Tuderte Bronze eagle by Giovanni di Gigliaccio.
Underground Todi is also worth a visit . Indeed, below the square are the Roman Cisterns, which can be visited.
You can learn more about things to see in Todi in this article
Where to Eat in Todi ?
I am from Todi and I assure you that the overall quality of restaurants in Todi is good . Restaurants in the historic center that I recommend are Jacopone Restaurant to enjoy the “pasticcio Jacopone” a recipe exclusive to this restaurant and very famous . It is a first course with tortelloni and stuffing.The tastiest and most typical second course, on the other hand, is made by Ristorante Umbria , under the vaults of the municipal buildings: palombe alla ghiotta ( to be reserved). Other restaurants to consider in the old town are Cavour Restaurant which has a beautiful terrace from which there is a magnificent view ( good pizzas) , The Restaurant le Scalette, the Restaurant “Pane e Vino” and L’Osteria Antica Valle .
If you come to Todi, you must not miss an ice cream at Bar Pianegiani, one of the best artisanal ice creams in all of Umbria and beyond. Pizzas and small deli at the “Vicoletto” near the Municipal Theater or at Italo’s Pizzeria near the Rua Fountain.
Where to sleep in the historic center of Todi
IF you have decided to spend a weekend in the town of Jacopone you will surely be looking for accommodation where you can sleep the night . In the historic center of Todi , a few steps from the square is the Hotel Fonte Cesia is an excellent 4-star hotel with adjoining restaurant ; Also in the center is the period residence San Lorenzo .
If, on the other hand, you have no preference there are many hotels, farmhouses, bed and breakfasts just outside the historic center of Todi for all tastes and all budgets
